Sleeping Beauty of Everest: The Heartbreaking Final Journey of Francys Arsentiev
Mount Everest, the world’s highest peak, has an enduring beauty that captivates anyone who lays eyes on it. Its name alone carries pride and distinction, standing unmatched among the mountains of the world.
This majestic peak rises in Nepal, the “Land of Mountains.” Everest does not discriminate—it treats everyone equally, regardless of class, gender, or culture. Its challenges are the same for all who dare to climb it.
Every year, thousands of climbers come to Everest in search of adventure and unforgettable memories. Among them, one story stands out—the story of Francys Arsentiev, known as the “Sleeping Beauty” of Mount Everest.
Her journey was unlike that of any other climber. Francys attempted to become the first American woman to reach the summit without supplemental oxygen in May 1998, climbing alongside her husband, Sergei Arsentiev. She succeeded in reaching the top, experiencing the mountain’s breathtaking beauty, but the descent brought terror, exhaustion, and the harsh realities of extreme altitude.
On the way down, Francys and Sergei became separated. Fatigue, oxygen deprivation, and severe weather took their toll. Despite Sergei’s efforts and those of other climbers to save her, Francys succumbed to frostbite and hypothermia. Her frozen body, still in her climbing gear, remained visible near the main route in Rainbow Valley for years, earning her the haunting nickname “Sleeping Beauty.”
Her death sparked intense discussions within the climbing community about ethics, rescue decisions, and the risks of pushing human limits in the Death Zone. It highlighted the dangers climbers face, even those with experience, and the importance of preparation, decision-making, and understanding the unforgiving nature of high-altitude expeditions.
A Brief History of Francys Arsentiev
Francys Arsentiev was born on January 18, 1958, in Honolulu, Hawaii, U.S. In 1992, she married Russian climber Sergei Arsentiev. She also had a son, Paul Distefano, from a previous marriage to John Abel.
Together, Francys and Sergei climbed numerous peaks in Russia, including the first ascent of a 5,800-meter peak they named Peak Goodwill. They also successfully climbed Denali via the West Buttress. Francys achieved several remarkable feats on her own as well—she became the first U.S. woman to ski down Mount Elbrus and summited both its east and west peaks.
By this time, she had set her sights on a new challenge: becoming the first U.S. woman to summit Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. Reflecting on her ambition, her son said, “I don’t know why she decided she had to do it without oxygen, but I think she felt like she needed to prove something.”
Previous Attempt to Summit Everest
In May 1998, Francys and Sergei Arsentiev reached Everest’s base camp, ready to tackle the world’s highest peak. On May 17, they climbed from Advanced Base Camp to the North Col. The next day, they pushed higher, reaching 7,700 meters (25,300 ft), the same day that 21 other climbers successfully summited from the north side.
By May 19, the couple had reached Camp 6 at 8,203 meters (26,913 ft). Sergei reported via radio that they were feeling strong and planned to begin their summit push on May 20 at 1:00 a.m.
Their first summit attempt, however, ended in disappointment. After spending the night at Camp 4, they began their climb but had to turn back at the First Step when their headlamps failed, making it too dangerous to continue. The following day, May 21, they stayed at Camp 6, having climbed only 50–100 meters (160–330 ft) before deciding to turn around once more.
What Exactly Happened?
On May 22, 1998, Francys reached the summit of Mount Everest, becoming the first American woman to do so without supplemental oxygen. It was an incredible achievement, but it also made the climb far more dangerous. During the descent on May 22 and 23, she began to suffer from severe exhaustion and altitude sickness, and she and Sergei became separated as conditions worsened.
On May 23, Francys collapsed near the South Summit, her body weakened by the lack of oxygen and extreme fatigue. Several climbers passed by over the following hours, but were unable to help because the altitude was too high and supplies were limited. Calm and motionless, she earned the name Sleeping Beauty of Everest. Sergei tried to rescue his wife, showing his dedication, but he too eventually succumbed to the harsh conditions nearby.
Francys’s body remained on the mountain for years, visible to passing climbers, and her story became one of the most well-known tragedies on Everest, reminding everyone of the extreme risks of high-altitude climbing. Over time, the climbing community has continued to honor Francys and Sergei Arsentiev for their courage and the sacrifices they made to follow their dreams.
What Happened During Francys Arsentiev’s Descent
The tragedy of Francys Arsentiev, known as the Sleeping Beauty of Everest, was the result of several factors during her descent. After reaching the summit, she was exhausted and suffering from severe altitude sickness. Climbing without supplemental oxygen left her struggling to breathe and slowed her thinking, leaving her weak and disoriented. About 35 meters from the summit, Francys collapsed and was unable to continue.
Several climbers passed by in the following hours, but the extreme altitude and harsh conditions made it impossible to offer help. Her immobile body remained on the mountain for years, serving as a stark reminder of the dangers in the Death Zone.
Sergei Arsentiev’s Attempt to Save His Wife
After summiting Everest, Francys and her husband Sergei became separated during the descent due to exhaustion and worsening weather. When Sergei found Francys collapsed and unable to move, he made the courageous decision to stay with her and try to bring her down the mountain.
Fighting extreme cold and severe oxygen deprivation, he struggled to help her, but the harsh environment and physical exhaustion eventually overcame him as well. Tragically, both Francys and Sergei lost their lives while attempting to descend together.
The Fate of Francys Arsentiev’s Body
Climbers entering the Death Zone not long after 1998 were the first to see Francys’s body. At that altitude, it was impossible to recover her, and she became a well-known landmark for those attempting the climb. Her peaceful appearance earned her the nickname “Sleeping Beauty.”
Nearly a decade later, in 2007, a team led by experienced climber Dave Hahn made an effort to move her body to a safer location. The operation was difficult due to the extreme conditions, but relocating her body was seen as necessary to reduce risk for climbers passing through that section of the mountain.
Last Words of the Sleeping Beauty
Alone, exhausted, and struggling to breathe high in the mountains, Francys’s final words were, “Don’t leave me. Don’t leave me alone, please.” Those words reveal the fear and heartbreak she must have felt in her last moments, isolated in one of the most unforgiving places on Earth.
Sergei’s desperate attempt to reach and save his wife amidst the treacherous slopes of Mount Everest stands as a testament to love, courage, and devotion. His journey is remembered and honored as a mark of bravery and a symbol of the deep bond they shared.
FAQs
Is Francys Arsentiev’s body still on the mountain?
No, in 2007, a group of climbers moved her body off the main route to a safer location, reducing the risk and emotional impact on other climbers passing through.
How did Francys Arsentiev die?
She passed away during her descent after suffering from exhaustion, severe altitude sickness, and lack of oxygen while in the Death Zone. Her weakened condition made it impossible to continue safely.
Is it possible to rescue climbers in the Everest Death Zone?
Rescue is extremely difficult above 8,000 meters. Helicopters cannot safely reach this altitude, and fellow climbers often lack the strength and resources to carry someone to safety.
Did Francys Arsentiev reach the top of Everest?
Yes, she reached the summit on May 22, 1998, becoming the first American woman to climb Mount Everest without using supplemental oxygen.
What happened to Sergei Arsentiev?
Sergei tried to go back up the mountain to reach Francys after they were separated. Tragically, he did not survive and is believed to have died while attempting to save her.
What is Rainbow Valley on Everest?
Rainbow Valley is a stretch near the summit, scattered with brightly colored clothing and gear from climbers who lost their lives. The extreme conditions make it nearly impossible to recover these remains.
Why didn’t other climbers help Francys?
At such extreme altitudes, helping another climber can put your own life at risk. Many climbers are forced to make impossible decisions, prioritizing survival when conditions are deadly.